Despite early morning workouts, faded makeup and unkempt hair are generally associated more with slowness than sex appeal. But at the spring 2006 shows in New York, Milan and Paris, the unadorned beauty made a memorable appearance on virtually every catwalk. The effect: a confident woman whose seeming spontaneity only adds to her charm. Fortunately, this season’s au natural version isn’t just for supermodels with flawless skin; The following ten trends are peppered with enough flattering twists that any woman can pull off with aplomb.
Naked
Underscoring fashion’s return to minimalism, spring makeup was decidedly more understated than anything we’ve seen in recent seasons. “The goal is to create a ‘is she or isn’t she?’ look,” says makeup artist Viviane Hidalgo of Miami’s Primal Studio. “For most women, that means using a concealer, primer, and moisturizer mixed with foundation to get good coverage.” In real life, a look completely devoid of color can risk looking deadly, which is why Hidalgo urges women to use a subtle hue to bring out their best feature. “If you have great eyes, for example, add a bit of definition in the corner,” she suggests.
On the track: At Chloe, models wore just a dab of liner along their upper lash line; at Balenciaga, freshly washed faces were enhanced with carefully chosen splashes of colour; and at BCBG Max Azria and Christian Dior, there was barely any makeup.
Best bets: Maybelline New York Revitalizing Concealer, Laura Mercier Oil-Free Foundation, Olay Complete Moisturizer, MAC Prep + Prime Skin
rope trick
Every season seems to spawn a signature hairstyle, and by spring, braids were the crowning glory of the models. However, if you haven’t worn them since sixth grade, you might want to take a look before you jump. “It’s a very youthful look,” says Kim Lépine of salon Lépine New York. “If you’re young and trendy, you should be wearing them everywhere, everywhere,” she recommends. For older or more sophisticated ladies, Lépine suggests “a single braid at the back of the head as an elegant detail for a chignon or updo.”
On the track: Funky braids ruled the catwalks at LAMB; in Rochas, the hair was braided in thin halos worthy of a princess; Stylists at Viktor & Rolf opted for oversized, voluminous versions; and at Calvin Klein, the locks were swept up into a single loose, low-maintenance braid.
Best bets: Goody Exquisite Rat Tail Comb, Mason-Pearson Brush, Biosilk Silk Therapy, Sebastian Shaper Hairspray
hot lips
In a season of understatement, some makeup artists have relied on ruby lips to add a dose of drama—a classic, glamorous look that makeup artist Troy Surratt loves. “A bold, sexy red lip is especially perfect for winter,” he maintains. Plus, “You don’t have to be scared. If you’re wearing a red lip, just remember to downplay the rest of your face.”
On the track: Lips were a matte cherry at Alessandro Dell’Acqua, a rich, shimmering scarlet at Costume National, and a warmer tomato shade at Emanuel Ungaro.
Best bets: Maybelline New York Moisture Extreme in Royal Red, Chanel Le Crayon Gloss in Grenadine, Urban Decay Pleather Pencil in Kink, Nars Lipstick in Heat Wave
Heavy metal
Shimmering shadows in shades of gold, silver, and bronze made a big appearance on virtually every runway. According to Surratt, “Glitter can enhance anyone’s eyes, and shades of gold tend to be the most flattering.” The key, he emphasizes, is to dazzle in small doses: “Make sure to keep the shadow on the lid and use just a little bit to highlight the brow bone.”
On the track: On Alberta Ferretti, gold shadows highlighted the inner corners of the eyes, darkening to bronze at the arch of the brow; Anna Sui used just a touch of gloss on her lids and lower lash line; Chanel opted for a futuristic silver hue; and metallics by John Galliano (in keeping with haute couture) took a Felliniesque twist.
Best bets: Maybelline New York Roller Color in In-Line Ice, Bare Escentuals Foiling Glimmers, Girlactik Beauty Sparkle Eye Liner Set, Benefit Show Offs
brown eyed girl
Spring’s mink, sienna and sable eyeshadows proved that browns are anything but boring. “It’s a nice balance of nude and makeup, and there are a lot of browns to choose from,” says Bobbe Joy of the Bobbe Joy Makeup Studio in Beverly Hills. “To amplify a neutral shadow, add a line of gold or iridescent shadow from the lashes to the crease, right down the center of the lid,” she says. “It’s still a natural look, but it really opens the eye.”
On the track: On Andrew Gn, the eyes were enhanced with a warm walnut; at Celine, the make-up artists opted for an unconventional ocher hue; Moschino chocolate shadows were covered in glitter in the crease; and on Vera Wang, the eyes were swept with a more modest crude.
Best bets: Cargo eyeshadow in Cocoa Beach; Cover Girl Eye Enhancers in Mink; Too Faced Eyeshadow Duo in Full Frontal; and Afterglow Multitasking Eye Shadows in Champagne Shimmer, Dune and Coco
quite skillful
Despite their associations with gangsters, slicked-back strands looked surprisingly fresh and pretty on the runways. In real life, without a team of stylists at your disposal, “the style is best suited for people with thin, fine or straight hair,” says hairstylist Lindsay Rider of the Bang Salon in Washington, DC. hair type, start by coating freshly washed strands with a smoothing cream, then blow dry and finish with a shine spray. To ensure a sleek, non-sticky end result, “use less product at first,” Rider suggests; “you can always add more later if you need to.”
On the track: Hair was pulled back in bright pony at Chloe and Prada; Narciso Rodríguez used bright locks to create an ultra-modern French twist; and Alexander McQueen split the difference, slicking back the strands in the front and letting them loose in the back.
Best bets: Tigi Bedhead After-Party Smoothing Cream, Frédéric Fekkai Glossing Cream, Redken Vinyl Glam 02 Mega Shine Spray, Citre Shine Mist Anti-Frizz Spray Laminator
Doll face
Continuing a trend that began last fall, makeup artists relied on rosy blushes to give models a pretty, fresh glow. For a convincing blush, rather than ’80s-style racing streaks, selecting the right product is key. “You want to avoid pigments that are too heavy for your skin tone,” explains Hildago. “Creams and tints tend to work best on skin without large pores, while powders tend to complement less perfect complexions.” In any case, “you should use a round motion to get a good blend and remove any excess with a tissue,” she adds.
On the track: Carolina Herrera’s models got a healthy pale pink blush, while Zac Posen and Anna Molinari’s were treated to a deeper shade of pink.
Best bets: Chanel Joues Contrast Blush in Rose Bronze, Nars Orgasm Blush, Fresh Blush Powder in Charm School, Cargo Blush in Topeka
stain report
Thin is eternally on the runway, but at spring shows, makeup artists eschewed thin sweeps of liner in favor of thick, indistinct smudges. According to Hildago, blurring the lines perfectly is very much a matter of choosing the right product. “To achieve a diffused look, use a soft kohl pencil to line the eye,” she says. “Black can be very intense, so depending on your color, you may want to try a neutral brown or taupe instead.”
On the track: On Donna Karen, the eyes were enhanced with a smudge of black eyeliner on the inner corners and an abbreviated cat eye on top; at Givenchy, the lines were thicker and more intense, continuing around the entire eye; and at Louis Vuitton, dark lines seamlessly blended with increasingly lighter shadows on the lids and brows.
Best bets: Revlon Colorstay Eyeliner in Black, MAC Eye Kohl Liner in Smolder, Benefit Bad Gal Liner, Estee Lauder Artist’s Eye Pencil in Softsmudge Black
moist and smooth
On many runways, makeup artists used lip glosses to give neutral palettes a dewy glow. To give your gloss more staying power, “first prep your lips with a bit of foundation,” says Surratt. “Then line them in a shade very close to your natural lip color and fill in with a light gloss.” Eyeliner, Surratt explains, “will keep the glitter from spreading across the rest of your face.” And if you opt for a glossy, nude lip, “play up your eyes and add a little highlighter to your cheeks,” he suggests.
On the track: The pouts got a pale pink glaze at Behnaz Sarafpour, a pink gloss at J. Mendel, and a coral-colored glaze at MaxMara.
Best bets: Giorgio Armani Fluid Sheer Foundation, Clinique Sheer Shaper for Lips in Blushy, Stila Lip Polish in Glisten, Smashbox Lip Gloss in Shoot
Bronze Age
For years, makeup artists have used self-tanners and bronzers to give models with porcelain skin a fake glow. But in recent seasons, we’ve seen the fade evolve into a more subtle and believable bake, a trend that continued on the spring runways. “Self-tanners and bronzers can give a nice color,” says Joy, “but they tend to have a lot of orange tones, so you have to pick the right one. One size definitely doesn’t fit all, especially if you’re pale.” For a more realistic glow, “use blush on the apples of your cheeks as well,” she suggests. And she remembers, “Your head is resting on your neck, so don’t forget to apply these products to your neck, shoulders, and décolletage.”
On the track: The skin was tawny at Michael Kors, a pink shimmer at Oscar de la Renta, and a shimmering bronze at Versace.
Best bets: Jergens Natural Glow, Clarins Liquid Bronze, Bobbi Brown Bronzer and Blush Duo, Stephane Marais Bronzing Powder
a good mess
The deliberately tousled tresses provided a stylish contrast to the slick strands and cascading curls at spring shows. According to Lépine, achieving a sexy, fresh-out-of-bed look requires a careful balance between chaos and control. “Use soft-hold products, like lightweight gels, waxes, and pomades, to tidy up the mess,” she says. “At that point, you can leave it down or secure the hair discreetly with bobby pins for a casual updo.”
On the track: The strands were messy and sexed up in Libertine; thrown into random pick-ups at Luca Luca; and he left Roberto Cavalli and Missoni loose and wavy.
Best bets: Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray, John Frieda Beach Blonde Ocean Sea Waves, Aveda Purefume Brilliant Humectant Pomade, Matrix Biolage Shaping Cream Wax