Viper Boas are a wonderful species of snake to look at. They are very robust, with hard, keel-shaped scales and an arrow-shaped head. They are usually a fairly dull brown, although they can be a wonderful bright red or orange. However, they change color with the seasons, temperature, and perhaps mood swings. I have had wonderful orange specimens that turn dark brown over time. Almost all Viper Boas are wild caught, in fact I have not heard of any successful breeders who have bred and bred them. Gravid (pregnant) females are often imported and bear their young in captivity. However, most of these die within 6 months for little or no apparent reason. Over time, we hope to learn more about this species and successfully breed it in captivity. Viper Boas are fairly calm snakes, but when handled incorrectly they can slither back and forth with the speed of light. Although they are not poisonous, they do have a rather nasty sting. Adult females can reach 80 cm; males are less than half the size.
Accommodation
When keeping a pet snake, you usually want to be able to view the snake from outside of its enclosure, in the most natural environment it can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and will also help in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its environment, it will have a better feeding response and will generally grow faster. A larger vivarium also offers more interest in the snake’s life, and adding branches and other natural products will improve the snake’s quality of life and prevent it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger, you should have more resistance to any viral infections or any other problems you may encounter later in life.
For an adult Viper Boa, a vivarium 60 cm long x 45 cm wide x 45 cm high is sufficient. This is a shy species; many specimens when purchased in captivity can go many months without feeding. It is important that this transition period be as stress-free as possible. A small, confined enclosure without additional lighting, away from human “traffic”, may be needed. Once the boa feeds regularly, a larger vivarium with lighting can be offered.
Snake enclosures can be made from various materials. The most used is a melamine-coated wood that covers all sides except the front, which has sliding glass doors. Aquariums can also be used for Viper Boas, although a specialized lid must be purchased or made in place of the original aquarium lid. It’s essential when thinking about what type of cabinet you use, think about these 6 ‘SSSHHH’ factors:
1) Safety – can the snake or owner be injured by the enclosure or any apparatus inside?
2) Safe – Can the snake escape through any small holes or cavities?
3) Size – Will the enclosure be the right size?
4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature correctly?
5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for moisture to escape?
6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure collect a lot of bacteria in the small cavities? Is it easy to clean?
By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.
Decor
The decoration on your tank serves two purposes. Firstly, it is additional coverage for your snake, and secondly, it allows for a nicer, more natural appearance. When choosing the decoration, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use is securely fastened and that no rocks, wood, or anything heavy can fall down that could injure or even kill the snake. You should also make sure that everything you use is free of parasites. If something has been collected from outside, or originally came from outside, such as cork bark, you should boil it or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for about 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in frozen conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last through winters in sub-zero temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.
Once all of your decoration is parasite free, it is safe to place it inside your enclosure. As a general rule of thumb, if you can press down on an object to knock it down, a Viper Boa is certainly capable of it. When placing rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it’s still uncomfortable, screw them on or use super glue to fix them securely. If it’s not possible, the rule is simple: don’t put the item in the nursery!
If you decide to go for a larger enclosure, you need to provide enough cover and areas to hide. A stash can be anything from Tupperware with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and decorations you can use that are safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered if they don’t have it in stock. This is an excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing to keep in mind when thinking about nursery size is that the larger you go, the more hiding areas you need to provide. I recommend at least one hiding spot per foot of enclosure length.
NOTE: Never use duct tape on an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. believe me; Removing duct tape from any snake is no easy task!
Heating
Viper Boas are found on dense forest floors and are exposed to fairly constant air temperature. They don’t bask, so it’s not as important to provide them with a dedicated hot spot. Instead, having a fairly constant air temperature of 85-90°F during the day and 80-85°F at night is fine. A large bowl of water should be offered for the snake to fully submerge in if necessary. If your boa viper does this constantly, chances are the vivarium is too hot and needs to cool down a bit.
In my opinion, the ideal way to heat a Viper Boa’s enclosure is to use a feed plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick, which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It doesn’t need protection as there is no way a snake could grab it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it just sits on the roof of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; It is 75 watts and is enough for any vivarium up to 4 feet long and possibly larger. It does not produce light and therefore in a nursery it will also need a form of lighting. A power plate must be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop power to the power plate as soon as the temperature rises above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it gets too cold. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.
Ceramic heaters, spotlights, and heat mats are also ways to heat a vivarium. All of these have their pros and cons, but none are as good as a power plate in my opinion.
Turning on
Viper Boas are primarily nocturnal, meaning that they venture out in the dead of night. This is when their top predators are sleeping and their prey is awake. Lighting for this species is not important. However, having artificial lighting in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner and makes a nice addition to a snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photoperiod, and your regular time clock will generally be set to whatever setting you have your light set to.
They do not require any type of special lighting, such as a D3 ultraviolet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia natural sunlight fluorescent lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths from 12″ to 48″ and I suggest you use the largest size that will fit inside your vivarium.
Humidity
Viper Boas are found throughout much of New Guinea and the surrounding islands and are therefore exposed to high humidity. This should be replicated in captivity to help your snake’s overall health and well-being. A humidity range of 80-90% will allow the snake to shed its skin properly and be less prone to any problems such as respiratory infections.
Feeding
Juveniles or males should be offered furry or small mice, and as they grow older, the mice or rats should become larger. An adult female viper boa should be fed weaned rats. One of these every 2 weeks is enough. An adult male may hunt furry rats or large mice. The juveniles should be fed regularly, every 7 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is higher than that of adults, and as they get older, they need a lot more food to keep going. Boa vipers have a low metabolism compared to many snakes, move very little, and do not require the same amount of food as many other species. Snakes have the ability to accumulate a large fat reserve and become obese very easily. Removing the weight however, is a much more difficult task. Obese snakes will not live nearly as long as a healthy snake would due to liver and kidney problems. If you are unsure of your snake’s weight, consult a reptile veterinarian.